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Frequently asked Questions: Question 1 - How do I work out what I need? Answer - Probably the easiest way is to just measure the lineal distance of the fence and then draw a quick sketch (need not be to scale) showing starting points, distances, any gateways, T-intersections and corners etc. We can do the rest for you. Either post your sketch or fax it through to us on 09 236 9912. Question 2 - Can we post ram (post drive) the posts? Answer - Short answer, no. This is for 2 reasons, post ramming bruises the timber, disfiguring the posts and sometimes splitting the timber open, where water can get in and start to rot the post. Secondly the posts must be placed precisely in position for the rails to slot in and give a good straight line. We recommend a post hole borer (min 200mm auger for the 125 x 125 posts) and backfill and hand ram. Alternatively holes can be hand dug. Question 3 - Is the fence treated? Answer - Yes the fence posts are treated for in ground contact and the rails are treated for above ground protection. Question 4 - I don’t understand treatment; can I have some more information? Answer - Treatment levels required varies with the use of the timber. For timber that is put in or on the ground then you will need an H4 treatment i.e. the posts. For timber used in an outdoor situation but not in contact with the ground then you need an H3 treatment i.e. the rails Question 5 - What grade of timber is used for the fence and can you explain timber quality? Answer - To simplify timber grading the top grade of timber is called ‘clears’ followed by No 1 grade, No 2 grade, Merch grade and finally the lowest grade, is box grade. Our timber used to produce the fence at the top end of No 1 grade compared to a normal post and rail fence which is a merch grade. The grades differ visually (i.e. in the number and size of knots) and strength/movement wise (because of the knots and the age of the trees that the timber is milled from) Question 6 - Do you do a fence with round posts and rails? Answer - Yes we do. It looks awesome too. Contact us for post size options and prices. Question 7 - Are matching gates available? Answer - Yes we have matching gates made by a specialist gate making manufacturer. Question 8 - The fence seems expensive compared to a normal post and rail fence. Answer - We think comparing our fence to a normal post and rail fence is like comparing a mini to a Mercedes. Firstly we mill the timber used for our fence from a high quality log which gives a high quality No 1 grade (grades explained above). Higher quality means a stronger more visually appealing looking fence that will last longer and look good for a very long time. With our fence we also bevel the tops of the post and router the holes for the rails, again this detail makes for a more visually appealing fence. The rails are docked to length so there is no wastage and no need for a chainsaw or nails. We are very proud of our fence and believe no other fence can match us in terms of wood quality. See testimonials from our satisfied customers. Question 9 - Why do some post and rail fences warp and twist once they have been up for a while? Answer - This is due to the movement of timber when exposed to outdoor conditions such as sun and rain. It is natural for there to be some movement of the timber but this movement can be minimized. . This begins with the quality of the log being milled, the age of the tree (the younger the tree the less dense the wood and the more it is prone to twisting- we only mill logs with a minimum age of 27 years), the part of the log that the rails are milled from is carefully chosen, in addition the way the timber is dried and stored can all affect this movement. When manufacturing the BTD Interlock Fence we endeavour to do everything possible to minimize warping and twisting in the timber. Therefore we cannot guarantee that the timber will not move, we can only guarantee that we have done everything in our power to minimize this natural movement. We are constantly pleased to see our fences which have been up for some cases for 4+ years, still looking true and straight since the day they were installed. Question 10 - Can I organize my own delivery of the fence? Answer - Yes by all means. We do not put any mark ups on freight, we just try to get you the best price. If you have a contact in the trucking business or can get a better deal then we are more than pleased to allow you to arrange your freight and pay your contact directly. Question 11 - What if for some reason I get the fence and I don’t want it anymore? Answer11 - There are two issues here. Firstly if there is a quality problem with any of the materials supplied we will replace free of charge, no questions asked, these materials. If for any other reason you receive your fence and require a refund, just return the fence within 14 days and provided it is in undamaged condition we guarantee we will refund you 100% less any transport costs incurred in shipping the fence to you. We don’t think you can ask more than that! Question 12 - What if my fence isn’t an exact multiple of your fence unit? What you will need to do is say 4 bays out from the end of your fence, trim off the rails to make the last 4-5 bays fit. This makes the change in the multiple virtually unnoticeable and so much better than a wee short section on the end of the fence. If unsure then contact us and we can help you to sort this out. Question 13 - What if my fence is ready but circumstances change and I can’t start on it immediately? Ok, if you know something is going to delay you in erecting your fence before it is delivered let us know and if possible we may be able to store it here in our building until needed. If your fence has already been dispatched it is important that you do the following: If possible store under cover in a shed or building If it is not possible to store in a shed then use a tarpaulin to cover the timber and keep it out of direct sunlight. Ensure the fence is on level ground, if the ground is not level then use some posts as "dunnage" (to make a flat platform - you may even have some old bits of timber you could use) and stack the rest of the fence on top, making sure the middle of the stack is supported as well as each end. BACK |