Frequently Asked Questions

If your question has not been asked, please contact us.

1. How do I work out what I need?

Answer - Probably the easiest way is to just draw a quick fence layout plan (need not be to scale or anything flash!) showing starting points, & distances to any gateways, T-intersections and fixed corners etc. We can calculate out what you need and give you a firm quote. For budgetting purposes we can give you indicative per meter rates, this allows you to work out what post & rail combination will give you the look you require whilst being within the budget you are working within. You can firstly complete the enquiry form and we will get back to you with further details and the opportunity to attach your plan.

2. Can we post ram (post drive) the posts?

Short answer, no. This is for 2 reasons, post ramming bruises the timber, disfiguring the posts and sometimes splitting the timber open, where water can get in and start to rot the post. Secondly the posts must be placed precisely in position for the rails to slot in and give a good straight line. We recommend a post hole borer (min 200mm auger for the 125 x 125 posts) and backfill and hand ram. Alternatively holes can be hand dug.

3. Is the fence treated?

Yes the fence posts are treated for in ground contact H4 and the rails are treated H3.2 for above ground protection.

4. Do the rails shrink after installation? Is there any chance this will lead to rails dropping out?

Absolutely 100% NO, we send out our rails dry and due to the way we slowly and carefully air dry our premium rails, they shrink approx. 1mm over 1800mm (.0005%) so shrinkage is so minor so as to not figure in any concerns about rails dropping out of the slots. When correctly installed with rails housed in the rebates they cannot possibly fall out. Air drying gives the most stable rail compared to kilning rails. We are not aware of any other fencing supplier who air dries their rails.

5. Do you need to use concrete around the posts?

No, we do not recommend the use of concrete around the posts. This just adds extra costs to the job. We believe that ramming back around the soil or possibly using sand as your back fill , particularly on heavy soils, is the best way to keep the post from moving. The sand filters down after rain and makes the post nice and tight in the hole.

6. I don’t understand treatment; can I have some more information?

Treatment levels required varies with the use of the timber. For timber that is put in or on the ground then you will need an H4 treatment i.e. the posts. For timber used in an outdoor situation but not in contact with the ground then you need an H3.2 treatment i.e. the rails

7. What grade of timber is used for the fence and can you explain timber quality?

To simplify timber grading the top grade of timber is called ‘clears’ followed by No 1 grade, No 2 grade, Merch grade and finally the lowest grade, is box grade. Our timber used to produce the fence at the top end of No 1 grade compared to a normal post and rail fence which is a merch grade. The grades differ visually (i.e. in the number and size of knots) and strength/movement wise (because of the knots and the age of the trees that the timber is milled from)

8. Do you do a fence with round posts and rails?

Yes we do. It looks awesome too. Contact us for post size options and prices.

9. Are matching gates available?

Yes we have matching gates available in the same high quality timber. We have a range of gate styles and in most cases can build to your design. Standard sizes are available as well as custom made gates to suit your entrance way. Gates can be hung on our feature posts of 200mmsq,250mm sq and 300mm sq to really make a statement.

10. The fence seems expensive compared to a normal post and rail fence.

We think comparing our fence to a normal post and rail fence is like comparing a mini to a Mercedes. Firstly we mill the timber used for our fence from a high quality log which gives a high quality No 1 grade (grades explained above). Higher quality means a stronger more visually appealing looking fence that will last longer and look good for a very long time. With our fence we also bevel the tops of the post and router the holes for the rails, again this detail makes for a more visually appealing fence. The rails are docked to length so there is no wastage and no need for a chainsaw or nails. We are very proud of our fence and believe no other fence can match us in terms of wood quality. See testimonials from our satisfied customers.

11. Why do some post and rail fences warp and twist once they have been up for a while?

This is due to the movement of timber when exposed to outdoor conditions such as sun and rain. It is natural for there to be some movement of the timber but this movement can be minimized. . This begins with the quality of the log being milled, the age of the tree (the younger the tree the less dense the wood and the more it is prone to twisting- we only mill logs with a minimum age of 27 years), the part of the log that the rails are milled from is carefully chosen, in addition the way the timber is dried and stored can all affect this movement. When manufacturing the BTD Interlock Fence we endeavour to do everything possible to minimize warping and twisting in the timber. Therefore we cannot guarantee that the timber will not move, we can only guarantee that we have done everything in our power to minimize this natural movement. We are constantly pleased to see our fences which have been up for some cases for 11+ years, still looking true and straight since the day they were installed.

12. Can I organize my own delivery of the fence?

Yes by all means. We just try to get you the best price possible but if you have a contact in the trucking business then we are more than pleased to allow you to arrange your freight and pay your contact directly. Alternatively we are happy to load your trailer if you wish to collect from us.

13. What if for some reason I get the fence and I don’t want it anymore?

There are two issues here. Firstly if there is a quality problem with any of the materials supplied we will replace free of charge, no questions asked. If for any other reason you receive your fence and require a refund, just return the fence within 7 days and provided it is in undamaged condition we guarantee we will refund you 100% less any transport costs incurred in shipping the fence to you. We don’t think you can ask more than that!

14. What if my fence isn’t an exact multiple of your fence unit?

What you will need to do is, say 4 bays out from the end of your fence, trim off the rails to make the last 4-5 bays fit. This makes the change in the multiple virtually unnoticeable and so much better than a wee short section on the end of the fence. If unsure then contact us and we can help you to sort this out.

15. What if my fence is ready but circumstances change and I can’t start on it immediately?

Ok, if you know something is going to delay you in erecting your fence before it is delivered let us know and if possible we may be able to store it here in our building until needed. If your fence has already been dispatched it is important that you do the following:

  • If possible store under cover in a shed or building - especially during the wetter months
  • If it is not possible to store in a shed then use a tarpaulin to cover the timber and keep it out of direct sunlight.
  • Ensure the fence is on level ground, if the ground is not level then use some posts as "dunnage" (to make a flat platform - you may even have some old bits of timber you could use) and stack the rest of the fence on top, making sure the middle of the stack is supported as well as each end.

16. What is checking?

Checking or cracking is a natural occurrence in timber. Checking is more prevalent in the larger posts, mainly evident in posts of 200mm sq and above and all round posts. Usually more noticeable in summer or during long periods of hot dry weather.